Tucked away in a small lot, between tiny parcels of tilled fields and across the street from grazing cows and Hieden Feed & Supply, lies a tiny white house with a neon "Open" sign and an old screen door. This little building had been an eating establishment for several decades before it became Tree's Cafe (named after the owner). Tree told us he took over the place after an older relative had been running it for nearly thirty years, so some Spring residents might remember it by its old name, La Cita Lounge. The talent and dedication apparently runs in the family, as this place serves absolutely phenomenal food today.
Coming inside from the gravel parking lot you'll find a pastoral barbecue joint straight out of David Lynch's giddy imagination. Is that carpet on the walls? Yes, yes it is. The sunlight that reaches indoors is slow and dim, falling in line with the same easy pace that seems to take over when we've gone there to eat. Further inside, a sign in the back room states the house rules for all guests to read and follow:
NO CUSSIN
NO FIGHTING
NO GAMBLING
BE NICE
And nice is the way they roll here; in fact, it feels almost like hanging out at a friend's weathered ranch house, but with a hostess keeping her eye out to see if you're doing alright. Last we visited, a handful of folks were shooting pool to the leisurely pace of Bob Marley and Shaggy songs thumping from the jukebox. Without even striking up a conversation, one of them invited us to pick some more songs with his extra credits on the machine. In a similarly laconic simplicity, the menu aims simply to please: burgers, barbecue, and sides, with most everything kept under ten dollars except the big barbecue plates with two sides at $10.50.
The cheeseburgers they sell are of the classic school of burger design. You won't find an avocado-shiitake-brie hamburger nor a brutish two pound door-stopper; consider instead a karmic spectacle of a juicy, perfectly grilled patty with just the right amount of toppings (get yours all the way). The fries, fresh, long, and substantial, are the kind that aren't too timid to hide their big potato-ness. We note this only because recent trends in French-frydom seem to favor very thin, almost crispy fries—good in their own right, but not what you'll find here: a celebration of the potato-fry, flavored only subtly but with a mysterious kick still present.
In two of our three visits, we instead ordered Tree's divine onion rings which arrived hot and outfitted with a perfect light-colored batter. These aren't the crumbly, brown kind we sometimes have the misfortune of ordering. Nay, these are some rings to rule them all, managing to be at once crispy and fluffy, not unlike a dignified tempura.
If you stop by Tree's on a day other than Thursday or Friday, however, it might be in your best interest to order the knockout barbecue. We ordered links and sliced brisket and found ourselves amazed at the smoky, full flavor and the bright, perfect color—clearly the result of a masterful use of a pit. It was certainly better than our past attempts to find good barbecue out in cutesy central Texas towns. A friend of ours who has worked in the barbecue business decided to try a taste of Tree's ribs last week. He pensively chewed on his first bite before solemnly and definitively declaring, "This...is really good." Indeed, the pork rib meat slides coyly off the bone with only a minor suggestion from the plastic utensils provided, and the taste is heavenly: whisps of hickory smoke billow instantly to your brain's dopamine receptors. Each bite we had was actually surprising, since we would tend to forget how good the previous one was only seconds before.
Our final verdict? If you couldn't tell by now, Houstonist is a fan of Tree's. Get off of your inner-loop high horse for a change and make a trip up there to judge for yourself. (Directions: take Shepherd Drive north for about a forever or so, it'll be on your right-hand side)
Tree's Cafe
14422 Stuebner Airline
Closed Mondays
BBQ ribs and sausage Sat - Wed
(Better pinpointing using this address on Google maps)
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