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Remember that one time in France when you spent hours sitting at a quaint candlelit corner table with a great meal and a bottle of wine? Yea. That was awesome. Too bad France is so far away. But wait. That meal last night wasn’t in France? It was in a strip mall in Houston? Get out.
Seriously, Café Rabelais, camouflaged in a very humble strip section of Rice Village, is a departure from the ordinary. A step inside can easily transfer you to any charming café in Paris. Every wall, nook and cranny is lined with bottles of wine. Occasionally, patrons stand in the middle of the restaurant so they can study the huge blackboards with the menu written on it (the only menu in the restaurant as dishes can change twice daily). There aren’t many tables so it feels as if every table is tucked away in a quiet corner. In the evenings, the staff put candles on the tables and dim the lights. The candle holders are empty bottles of wine so the wax from the candle lazily and seductively drips down the wine bottle.
Service is unpretentiously attentive yet slow, perfect for long leisurely European-style meals. If you’re in a rush, it might be a good idea to tell your server. Otherwise, they will let you be until you flag them down when you’re ready for the bill. But why rush? Warm crusty bread with real whipped butter, an endless 40+ page wine list to peruse, a simple dessert menu with an extensive cheese selection (yes, cheese for dessert)…so relax. Stay awhile.
The Houstonist enjoys coming for both lunch and dinner. We love the simple sandwiches and salads that highlight fresh ingredients and great flavor combinations: salad nicoise, duck and mango salad, honey roasted pork fillet sandwich, lamb sausage and mustard ($6.95-$9.95). The thin-cut fries are served in a paper cone and are fried crisp…reminiscent of McDonald’s fries minus the grease and guilt. The ambiance changes from light and airy to romantic and dreamy when the sun sets. But be prepared to wait for a table since they don’t take reservations and people tend to putz through their meal and chat over wine and dessert.
Houstonist recommends ordering the mussels (moules a la Rabelais, $13.95) as an appetizer. The mussels are cooked in a white wine cream sauce, heavy on the herbs and cream, and served with those fries we love so much. The crusty table bread acts as the perfect vehicle to slop up the sauce. Dinner entrees range from $15-23 and feature duck, quail, lamb and rainbow trout. The food isn’t mind-blowing and innovative but solid and consistent with authentic French flavors. Extending dinner is irresistible with the enticing dessert cheese menu, crepe suzette and a cappuccino.
The Verdict: Well-balanced French cuisine, cozy quarters, quirky charms and relaxed service makes this Rice Village gem the complete dining experience. When you’re in need of an escape and a trip to France isn’t at your fingertips, come to Café Rabelais, order some wine, chew slowly, don’t skip coffee and dessert and have conversation!
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Cafe Rabelais
2442 Times Blvd.
713.520.8841
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