
Westheimer Road is a long, thriving, paved snake of potholed infrastructure. It guides you into town from the Grand Parkway through Beltway 8 and Loop 610 until it brings you all the way into a cozy, little enclave of town we lovingly refer to as The Montrose.
Not really the heart of Houston, because that would probably be the Medical Center, but more like the liver or one of the kidneys of Houston as it filters all kinds of people on their way to all kinds of places. From condo loving and SUV driving urbanites off to dine in fancy restaurants to kids from the suburbs in town to spend money at the resale shops to locals, work-a-day types, students, artists and musicians frequenting neighborhood restaurants, coffee shops and bars to street kids, homeless people and transvestite prostitutes hanging out at convenience stores, bus stops and sidewalks - all types of people filter through this neighborhood. All this activity proves that The Montrose does have a heart and that heart is where Westheimer intersects Montrose.
How do we know that the intersection of Westheimer and Montrose is the heart of Montrose? Because every year, Pride Houston installs a giant lighted chandelier in the center of the intersection for the annual Pride Parade. If that doesn't signify heart then what does?
The general consensus is that Lower Westheimer stretches from Shepherd to Bagby but in this installment of Urbanist, we are only going to focus on the one-third mile stretch of Westheimer between Montrose and Taft. We guess we could call it Lower Lower Westheimer, but we won't.
The first few establishments one encounters upon entering this part of Westheimer are two restaurants and a bar. Namely, Aladdin, Privé, and Felix on the north side of Westheimer at the 900 block. Aladdin [912 Westheimer] is a Middle Eastern restaurant with a Moroccan feel that serves up shawarmas on fresh, baked in-house bread, kabobs, tabouli and hummus, all of which are on the menu as well as many other Middle Eastern delicacies. The only thing missing is a dude in a fez and sunglasses with a lit hookah and that will remain missing due to local smoking ordinances.
Next door is Privé [910 Westheimer]. It is a quaint little two-story bar that offers a large selection of vodkas for the numerous martinis on the menu. There is also a second floor bar with a patio and balcony overlooking Westheimer making for superb people watching. Privé serves a mixed, casual crowd and is open seven days a week.
Felix Mexican Restaurant [904 Westheimer] is a Houston institution that has been in the same location since 1948. Some say the owner, Felix Tijerina, introduced Tex-Mex to Houston after working up through the ranks in a traditional Mexican restaurant downtown. All this happening prior to the term Tex-Mex actually being coined. With encouragement of his former boss, Tijerina opened his own restaurant in the same place that it sits today. In recent years, slow business threatened to close their doors but patrons came to the aid of their beloved restaurant and ate heartily allowing the restaurant to keep its doors open. Today, they are still in business serving up the Tex-Mex combination plates that make them famous.
Across the street from Felix, is an American bistro that was once listed in Zagat's as the second most popular restaurant in Houston. That bistro is known as Ruggles Grill [903 Westheimer] and serves everything from sandwiches and salads to grilled fish and meats in a casual, moderately priced, noisy atmosphere. Sundays are set aside for their Smooth Jazz Brunch which is usually advertised with a van from a local smooth jazz station blocking the sidewalk. We know, we've had to walk around it on numerous occasions.
Just up the road near Crocker is the neighborhood HPD substation. Known as the Neartown (Montrose) Substation [802 Westheimer - (713) 284-8604] it is open 24 hours and you can usually find several police cars parked out front. While it may be open 24 hours, we're not sure it's manned 24 hours after a graffiti tagging incident occurred right on their front doors as well as on police vehicles.
Next door to the HPD substation is the famed, Austin based deli, Katz's [616 Westheimer]. Their motto is "Katz's Never Kloses" - that is, unless a hurricane is imminent. This was the case in 2005 during hurricane Rita. The restaurant shut down, boarded up the windows and bugged out like Russian dressing rushing from the side of a Reuben. Like the HPD substation, Katz's is also open 24 hours serving up breakfast, lunch and dinner with a full bar and desserts to die for. Save room for the cheesecake shake! The sandwiches are huge, so bring along an appetite or a friend. Don't be afraid to ask for a to go box.
Across the street is The Women's Home of Houston [607 Westheimer] whose mission is "to help women in crisis regain their self-esteem and dignity, empowering them to return to society as productive, self-sufficient individuals." Founded in 1957 and part of the United Way, this organization boasts nearly an 80% success rate for women who participate in their program for six months or longer. Those that successfully complete the program leave the facility with their own income and housing. This success rate is almost double the rehabilitation industry standard.
About half a block up the street is Indika [516 Westheimer] where Chef Anita Jaisinghani serves up modern Indian cooking with local flair. We understand the chef doesn't like the term 'fusion' so don't go throwing it around when writing a review or pretending to be a food critic. Although it would seem that when you combine Indian food with fresh Texas produce and Gulf seafood, that is what you get but we digress. The reviews for this establishment are glowing and if modern Indian cooking is what you desire then this is your place.

If you're not in the mood for Indian, head next door to Dolce Vita Pizzeria Enoteca [500 Westheimer], a casual extension of local chef, Marco Wiles's popular DaMarco's restaurant. Described as a tribute to authentic Italian pizzerias (and possibly famed TV chef Mario Batali), Dolce Vita serves up over 20 different pizzas in the traditional style. Forget the buffet and animatronic characters, this is the real deal. The pizzas are made in a wood fired oven of unknown temperature as some reviews say 700° while others claim 800°. Either way, it's a hot oven. They also offer an extensive wine list (hence the term enoteca). If you're looking for a splendid bite to eat at a "see and be seen" kind of place, then you've found your next meal.
Our final stop on this one-third mile journey is for drinks and entertainment at AvantGarden [411 Westheimer]. Previously known as Helios, and before that The Mausoleum, this Montrose stalwart of the local scene is now a newly renovated, casual, relaxed place to hear DJ Sun on Wednesdays or Two Star Symphony on Thursdays while enjoying a tasty beverage. Even battles with transplanted suburbanites who love their condos, can't shut this place down.
We hope you enjoyed this short jaunt down Lower Westheimer. While this is only a small sampling of the establishments on this stretch of road, we encourage you to explore Houston and soak up all that our wonderful city has to offer.

Missed Connections: Gefilte Fish...and "Chain Connections"


Dolce Vita. Mmm.
Excellent job, Eric. Makes me want to go check out this "Westheimer" for myself!
Thanks for the tour of lower (lower) Westheimer. I see some places I need to try.
I ate at Indika for the first time in the last week.
The food was incredible. Good flavor and texture with the perfect amount of spicyness. Even the iced tea had a sort of musky peach taste that made it far superior to other iced teas.
There was one small problem: the place smelled like cat pee. If you're willing to work around that, definitely check it out.
Nice review. I know the area well but it was still fun reading about it. You should do Westheimer to the West of Montrose next! Lots of cool places around there too!
Great writeup for a great part of town!
very informative!
FABULOUS JOB!!!
fantastic. loved reading about all these places that i drive by all the time. now i know where to stop! nice job, houstonist.
Lower Westheimer rocks, this article points out some great places to visit. That's why our group is advocating Rail On Westheimer. Check out our website and see how a rail line there just fits better than the alternatives!
http://www.RailOnWestheimer.org/
Lower Westheimer, live on!
Maybe I'm missing something, but isn't lower Westheimer a pretty narrow street — like, narrow enough that four lanes of regular-width cars sometimes have trouble fitting on it? Wouldn't that mean that a light rail line on Westheimer would require widening the street and wiping out a lot of the places that make it a cool neighborhood?
Lower Westheimer is not only narrow, but quite curvy at times. There is also new construction that is very close to the street (parking in back). While rail nearby would be awesome, Westheimer has alot of size and row issues. Richmond, on the other hand, is more capable of handling something of that magnitude going east/west.
An elevated system that did not interfere with traffic would be even better.
that being said, though, it does look and sound really nice - if it can be planned well. especially business parking, since the second lane on parts of westheimer is used for parking during non-peak hours (which makes the one-lane car traffic a non-issue).
Did someone say monorail? Monorail! Monorail? Monorail!
Mr. Parsons, rail is better on Westheimer for the very reason that you point out -- it is narrower not very good for automotive and delivery truck traffic, whereas Richmond is very effective at moving cars, trucks, emergency vehicles, etc.
At this point, it is not clear what Rail on Westheimer would be like through lower Westheimer -- it might be one lane of traffic each direction like the narrow part of Main Street downtown, which would be no worse than what we have now because of the street parking. Although we are not suggesting it, some of the people who favor a walkable city, and the bike crowd, might suggest closing Lower Westheimer altogether and making it a rail / bike / walking streetmall. It is clear that closing Lower Westheimer would be less of an impact to car traffic than building rail on Richmond, simply because of Richmond's current ability to move large volumes of traffic.
But, will it seep/leak electricity, like Mayor Brown's Toy Train? Where are the environmental impact studies on that? Why would we move forward on another one, with that little jewel hanging over our heads?
I love this area of town so much that I could cry.
It's very unfortunate that Felix is now closed. However, I tried Aladdin for the first time last week. It was fabulous!!