What would be the obvious career path for someone who went to Harvard for undergrad and Yale for law school? Well, write and publish restaurant guides, of course. Duh.
Houstonist had the opportunity to sit with author/entrepreneur/foodie/publisher/world-traveller Robin Goldstein and his managing editor/foodie/marketer/public-relations-exec/S.O. Alexis Herschkowitsch. Robin has just released his Houston restaurant guide – Fearless Critic, Houston Restaurant Guide (one of the very first complete printed guides in Houston - and no, Zagat doesn't count). Houstonist was a little nervous about talking with Robin. What if our tastes are way different? What if he hates our favorite restaurants? What if he judges us because we love the McRib? It only took five minutes to feel at ease with Robin and Alexis. It also helped that we have very similar taste in food…but more on that later.
Food aside, Houstonist was absolutely fascinated by how Robin morphed into the Fearless Critic. Born in New York City, Robin grew up in Massachusetts and also did a stint in Italy. A lifelong foodie and experienced travel writer (Robin writes for a couple well-known travel guides), Robin decided that law school wasn't working him hard enough so he began his first restaurant guide during his third year of law school. Instead of sending his manuscript out to publishers and leaving his fate in their gritty little hands, he cut out the fiddle in the middle and started his own publishing company. Thus, the Fearless Critic was born. Since then, Robin has published the Fearless Critic guide for New Haven and Austin. Robin moved to Houston late last year to literally eat his way through the city. Ten months and many-a-meals later, the Fearless Critic Houston Restaurant Guide is gracing the shelves of your favorite book stores.
What struck us about Robin and Alexis is their lack of snobbery that is commonly associated with the restaurant reviewer. They speak easily about the food they love in order to share their enthusiasm more than to show how much they know. They put pretenses aside and discuss how even they can get burned out on eating out. In fact, for big events and celebratory occasions, you can find Robin and Alexis cooking together at home. We were inspired by their sheer will to build a career based on the things they love and to accept all the risks and humility that come with living an inspired life.
Now that we're done with our Oprah moment, let's get back to the book.
The restaurant guide is unique in that the panel of reviewers consists of notable chefs in Houston and people who's tastes Robin trusts. All members of the panel remain super secret undercover agents so that they are not recognized in restaurants. We'd suggest wigs and oversized sunglasses, but that might be a little bit of overkill. As we all know, the Houston restaurant scene is massive and ever-expanding. When asked how he narrowed his scope of restaurants Robin told us that he omitted restaurants that were out of the way, not well-known and/or just plain bad. He did include well-known, trendy, famous, and good-but-not-well-known restaurants. Of course, the list is not exhaustive but pretty darn comprehensive.
After our coffee date with Robin and Alexis, we went home and devoured the book. We found ourselves constantly giggling, amen-ing, and occasionally salivating as we flipped through it. Robin's reviews are dead on. The writing is witty and interesting. The book is well organized so that you can find what you need at a glance. The rating system is simple, but what we loved about it was that it really focused on the food. Too many restaurant reviews forget about the food in favor of the current trend (read: citysearch) or popularity.
Robin is a tough grader (only 5.5% of the rated restaurants received an A) but fair and honest. The criteria for their "brutally honest" rating system is very straight-forward. Their duty is to the readers and not to the restaurant. Some of the more popular (and expensive) restaurants got some embarrassing low grades (Bank received a D minus and Monarch scored a D). Some hole-in-the-walls finished top of the class (Himalaya, Pho Danh II, and Sam's Deli Diner). We instantly joined the Robin Goldstein fan club (note: there isn't a real fan club, at least not yet) when we found that we shared a love for Da Marco ("To call Da Marco the best restaurant in Houston is to underrate it, because nothing else even comes close") and an abhorrence for Nikko Nikko's ("A colossal Greek-American rip-off whose popularity grows more inexplicable by the year").
Regardless of whether you agree or disagree with Robin and his team of foodies, this book is a must-have for anyone who loves to eat in Houston. At the very minimum, it provides a fantastic list of options broken down by cuisine, time of day, location and special feature. Of course, our favorite list is the "Most Delicious" list. This guide has become our new holy grail. In fact, we're thinking about getting an extra copy - one to leave in the car and the other to keep in the house.
You can pick up your copy of the Fearless Critic at any Houston Barnes & Nobles, Borders, Whole Foods, local bookstores and select Specs. Of course, you can also order it online. And, as Robin states, at $17.95 "it's less than the price of one bad meal." With the holidays just around the corner, it's also the gift that keeps on giving.

Missed Connections: Gefilte Fish...and "Chain Connections"


I've only browsed through a friend's copy, but any book that reviews the (in)famous "Five Dollar Pizza Guy" who haunts the haunts like a cheap-ass Italian specter wins.
Though I love t'afia, their criticisms there were pretty much spot-on, too.
Anything in the book you blatantly disagreed with, Judy?
What a great book. It was incredibly funny and amazingly useful. If, like me, you love to eat and spend time in Houston, this book is perfect. Eating out in Houston used to be a crapshoot -- not anymore thanks to the Fearless Critic.
I love this book. There's no other guide like it that I trust. I went to Da Marco's and it was incredible.
I agree Rob. Even if a favorite place gets a low grade, the criticisms are right on the money. I didn't have too many that I blatantly disagreed with, but there were things that I was a little bummed he missed out (like the coconut cream pie at Ken and Ziggy's). However, it's just about impossible to hit every menu item in every restaurant. The only thing that jumped out at me was his review on Bodard (Vietnamese restaurant). He got the spring rolls right (best spring rolls in town-not your typical spring roll), but he knocked the pho. I thought everyone knows that you don't get pho at a restaurant that doesn't have "pho" right in the name. Essentially, you don't get pho at any restaurant that sells anything other than pho.
Pho aside, this book is exactly what Houston needs. I'm glad some institutions that have been getting by on reputation alone have been humbled. I'm wondering how chefs and restaurant owners are reacting to this book!
As the one who wrote the review on Bodard, I just wanted to say that I reviewed the pho at Bodard because of the several pitfalls that the pho at Bodard tries to lure you with: namely the "super bowl" thing meaning an extra large bowl (with what looks like just more broth added to it) and also the buy three get one free deal which I address in the review as well. I realize that while it's a good rule of thumb not to get pho at a non "pho something or another" restaurant, lots of people who aren't especially in the know use pho as the beginning and the end of what they think Vietnamese cuisine is, and because of that, use that as a fallback on what to order at Vietnamese restaurants. That coupled with the pitfalls that Bodard offers for their pho, I felt it was right to give a little commentary on their pho just so people don't fall into the trap.
But as a contributor to the book, I really appreciate your kind words. Happy eating.
As the one who wrote the review on Bodard, I just wanted to say that I reviewed the pho at Bodard because of the several pitfalls that the pho at Bodard tries to lure you with: namely the "super bowl" thing meaning an extra large bowl (with what looks like just more broth added to it) and also the buy three get one free deal which I address in the review as well. I realize that while it's a good rule of thumb not to get pho at a non "pho something or another" restaurant, lots of people who aren't especially in the know use pho as the beginning and the end of what they think Vietnamese cuisine is, and because of that, use that as a fallback on what to order at Vietnamese restaurants. That coupled with the pitfalls that Bodard offers for their pho, I felt it was right to give a little commentary on their pho just so people don't fall into the trap.
But as a contributor to the book, I really appreciate your kind words. Happy eating.