Week Around The Ists
H-Town Rock
We were all set to interview chef Randy Rucker earlier this week when a slight delay occurred that required us to reschedule. That delay? Rucker's brother had killed a 100-pound wild hog and brought it part and parcel to his doorstep that same afternoon.
Unable to resist the fresh pork, Rucker descended upon the beast and before he knew it, was "knee deep in pig and just couldn't get away." The result? "Nothing was wasted," he proudly proclaimed.
It's that passion for food -- first and foremost -- that makes 29-year-old Houston native Randy Rucker such a vibrant presence in the Houston restaurant scene. The Tomball High School graduate's interest in both fresh, local ingredients as well as the French-based movement of molecular gastronomy -- the study of the science behind cooking and the invention of new dishes based upon it -- combine to create one of the most inventive and progressive chefs around.
After receiving his culinary education at the notable College of Culinary Arts at Johnson & Wales University in Rhode Island and gaining invaluable experience in Napa Valley and Big Sur alongside the pioneering chefs such as Thomas Keller who made the region made famous for food (and not just wine), Rucker returned to Houston to ply his trade. He worked the kitchen first at Quattro at the Four Seasons, then at Mockingbird Bistro and later as sous chef at award-winning Mark's American Cuisine under chef Mark Cox.
Not content to simply sous chef indefinitely, Rucker soon took the plunge in 2005 and opened his own restaurant downtown with his mother and investor, Bootsie. laidback manor was the product of his love for molecular gastronomy and its fascinating cooking techniques, such as sous vide and foaming. Food at laidback manor combined these techniques with a warm, down-home style, with such dishes as Dr Pepper-braised short ribs and Texas hill country quail with turnip and foie gras stuffing and puree of apricot. But while laidback manor received national praise for its inventiveness and sheer genius (who could forget their infamous foie gras milkshake?), the Houston scene wasn't quite ready for froths and emulsions -- no matter how tasty -- and Rucker decided to close the restaurant in 2006.
Since then, he's been on the move, working for the Cordua group as a their corporate R&D chef, traveling to Lima, Peru for a culinary field/research trip and helping to open the new Americas in The Woodlands. He's also founded a private "supper club" called tenacity, which is already attracting buzz throughout foodie circles in Houston. And because Rucker isn't busy enough with these ventures, he's recently put out a battle call to all gastronomes throughout the city to identify and recognize what he calls "Houston's Rising Star Chefs."
On his personal blog "feeding curiosity", Rucker has created a loosely-defined contest that will last for at least another two weeks. He's asking people to submit their nominee for the best new, young talent among Houston's restaurant scene -- whether they be a serious CIA-trained chef or a hash-slinger at a hole-in-the-wall -- and at the end of the contest, Rucker will compile the results and host a bash to celebrate the winners.
Houstonist sat down with Randy Rucker to catch up with this avant-garde, truly busy wunderkind of a chef and get his opinion on food, Houston and Houston food.
First, welcome back from Wine & Food Week. How were this weekend's events?
I really didn't do much else besides a small tasting in the Continental Premium Lounge. I was just pumped to see the chefs from Lima [Peru] again. They really have something special down there. Actually, I was supposed to go back with Carlos Testino to help him with the opening of his new restaurant, Lima Pez, but he has run into a few delays. But I still plan on going down there when he's ready for me. I'm gonna also be doing a few dinners with Rodrigo Conroy at his restaurant, Rodigo. They have invited my girlfriend, Megan, to come as well so it should be a real treat; she has become good friends with all of them as well. We all had dinner together at the new America's in The Woodlands with chef Cordua and his family. It was a great!
Interview continues after the jump...
You've worked with some of Houston's greatest chefs in addition to running a supernova of a restaurant, laidback manor, and could easily be considered one of Houston's Rising Star Chefs yourself. What was your inspiration for creating this contest?
I wanted to do this for a number of reasons but mostly just to expose all the home-team heroes. I also think the people that are reading "feeding curiosity" are looking for something else, not the norm. I can be pretty opinionated sometimes and I'm kinda curious myself to hear the thoughts.
Tell us more about your new dining venture, tenacity. Are you still working with the Cordua group in addition to running tenacity?
tenacity kinda just started on its own. I was already doing private dinners and it kinda just made sense. It's a great time because the guests are after something different and original. Plus, it's great to see the host feel and act like a guest in his or her own home. I have done dinners from 8 to 25 people and a range of 8 to 18 courses. I recently moved and have had the pleasure of building a vegetable garden that I can use at these dinners. I have access to pigs and real soon will be raising our own birds like bobwhite quail, guinea hen and chickens. The ultimate goal is to set up a permanent kitchen with a small area for one big long table for dining and operate a true supper club four nights a weeks. It's exciting to see how it all works together. I'm no longer working for the Cordua group.
What do you prefer about tenacity as opposed to the straight-up restaurant business?
The personal level. The ability to really know where the food is coming from. Not to say that this project doesn't have responsibilities but operating a full service restaurant for lunch and dinner with full staffing is an unbelievable task. This is a smaller operation that will allow me to grow from -- kinda like really fertile soil.
You have made conspicuous mention of a party to celebrate the winner of your Rising Star Chef contest. Will this be a tenacity event or a Randy Rucker event?
I'll be there. I'll probably be doing something edible but more of a gathering and a celebration. It's difficult to get cooks all in one place. We will see what unfolds.
What do you hope to accomplish with this contest?
It's not so much a contest but more of my way of raising awareness. There won't be one winner but a list of people that are worth looking into...
Which Houston chef -- rising star or dinosaur -- do you feel that you've learned the most from?
I personally think my biggest influence in my style of cooking and the way I approach cuisine is my peers! Yes, I've learned a lot from chefs -- the good, bad and ugly -- but I really think it is the cooks and the people who you surround yourself with on a day-to-day basis. This is the reason I learn from dishwashers, busboys and even sometimes waiters. The world is so full of great cooks right now it's almost amusing. Chefs in America have caught up with everyone and surpassed others. It's been a ride thus far and I hope it continues to flourish! To me, that's the ultimate homage, just doing better than before! That's the idea. A great idea is something that someone else can develop further. Oui?
What trends do you see developing in the Houston restaurant scene within the next five years or so? Are you happy with the direction that we're headed as a city in terms of our culinary efforts and offerings?
The Houston food scene is better now than last year and if that continues we are doing something right. As far as trends go...well? That's just it -- trends come and go. The trick is to continue forward on new ground. I would like to see the sushi thing slow down a bit or become a little less "hip". I would love to open a place that only serves from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. and specialized in tiradito, crudo, and cebiche and had killer pisco sours or a cool taco joint with incredible margaritas. I admire Ken Oringer in Boston for all his efforts. Ken has it all...modern French, a real sushi bar, a Spanish tapas joint, steakhouse and even a taco joint! I'm eager to see what Rhea Wheeler does with his properties; he has the magic touch and he digs food! I would also like to see more chefs like Bryan [Caswell] at REEF and Chris [Shepherd] at Catalan get some national recognition. I think they both deserve a nod from Food & Wine and of course I am excited about [Scott] Tycer's Textile. I dig Scott's talents as a business man and a culinarian. I do know that Houston needs to pay attention to what is around. We have great chefs come and go though this city because there is a very small market for food that these chefs enjoy cooking. Shawn Duffy and Seth Siegal-Gardner are two that I can think of right off the bat that are in Chicago now because of other greater opportunities. It would be nice for Houston to be able to hold on to what it's got and continue to grow.
One last question -- a hypothetical: You're appearing on old-school, original gangster Iron Chef. Which chef do you choose for your battle?
For the "o.g" -- Rokusaburo Michiba, the first Iron Chef Japanese, is known as both "the god of Japanese cuisine" and "the rebel of the culinary world."
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To cast your vote for Houston's Rising Star Chef, make sure and visit Rucker's blog and post your favorite chef's name in the comments section. In the meantime, we'll sit back and wait to see which young chefs Houston chooses as their favorites and what culinary adventures Rucker comes up with next.
L to R: Chef Alvaro Raffo of Restaurant 73, chef Daniel Delgado Jitsuya of Osaka (both in Lima, Peru) and chef Randy Rucker at Wine & Food Week in The Woodlands this past weekend.
Photos courtesy of: feeding curiosity.
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Ahh, great interview! I haven't been back to Lima in quite some time, but I'm now really looking forward to my next visit! Yum!
A very nice piece about Randy. I think he's great. He's doing things with food that no one else is doing in Houston. We need that.