Tripping the Light Balsamic

Houstonist had the great fortune of attending Houston's first-ever "flavor tripping" party this past Friday, July 25th, hosted by the Houston Chowhounds.

If you're anything like our friends, family and coworkers, your first question is probably, "Flavor tripping?" Which is inevitably followed quickly by, "Is that legal?" Easy answer first: yes, it's legal. And to answer the first question, flavor tripping is the newest culinary fad being embraced by curious foodies everywhere. Flavor tripping involves eating a small red berry called Synsepalum dulcificum, otherwise known as a Miracle berry. The juice from the berry's flesh binds to your tongue, changing the way that sour or bitter foods and beverages taste for anywhere from one to four hours.

These tiny berries, which originated in West Africa, have been known to the Western world since the early 18th century when they were first documented by the French cartographer Chevalier des Marchais. Tribes in West Africa ate the berries not as a dietary supplement, but as a means of masking the flavor of their routine meals, which were primarily made from sour sorghum and bitter millet.

Fast-forward some 200-odd years to today, where the berry is now used as a novelty act at flavor tripping parties (which began earlier this year in New York City and San Francisco). The idea behind the parties is simple: order a batch of berries, put together a buffet of sour, bitter and acidic foods, invite your friends and let the berries do their work. With the help of the berries, limes and lemons taste like Kool-Aid, dark beer tastes like chocolate milkshakes, balsamic vinegar tastes like sugar and bologna sandwiches taste like cake. The berries cost about $15 a pop, though, so this isn't necessarily the kind of party you want to throw every night.

The Houston Chowhounds introduced the Houston foodie scene to Miracle fruit for the first time this past Friday at La Strada. Over 100 people showed up to sample the berries along with a spread that included balsamic vinegar and Tabasco sauce (both straight up), fresh lemons and limes, salt and vinegar potato chips, unsweetened cranberry juice, tequila, Guinness, some very blue cheeses, bologna sandwiches and a special unsweetened mojito. The important question in all of this is, of course, did the berries work?

Interestingly, the berries' effect seemed to vary completely from person to person. Some people reported no change in their tastebuds at all. Some people reported only a few items tasting differently. And some people experienced effects that lasted throughout the night, altering the taste of everything they put into their mouths.

Houstonist had a middle of the road experience with our berries. Some of the foods tasted differently, while others tasted the same as they always do. But the effects of our berries lasted well into the night, affecting the way that foods tasted several hours later. So what did we experience?

Our berries -- like everyone elses' -- had a surprisingly large pit inside of it, leaving little flesh and precious little juice to savor. Following instructions carefully, we let the juices and flesh linger on our tongues as long as possible before swallowing, to maximize the tripping potential. The berry itself tasted very similar to a cranberry, pleasingly tart. The effects took place immediately.

Eating whole limes and lemons was like drinking a pitcher of limeade or lemonade into which someone had stirred an entire sack of white sugar. While it was fascinating at first, we soon realized that it was overly sweet and spent the rest of the evening trying to get that sticky sweet taste off our tongues. Cantaloupe, strawberries and grapes all tasted exactly the same as normal ones would. Raspberries, however, were strikingly sweet but without the cloying, offensive sweetness the limes and lemons produced.

Salt and vinegar potato chips tasted exactly like they'd been drenched in sweet barbecue sauce. Balsamic vinegar tasted like caramelized sugar, dizzyingly good, and only the tangy burn in our nostrils prevented us from drinking another cupful of it (seriously, it can't be good for you to drink vinegar straight up like that). Tabasco sauce simply tasted of air, but our lips and tongue burned with the same Tabasco fire, sans any flavor. Another mysteriously ephemeral substance was the tequila, which tasted like water. That unmistakable gasoline sensation still filled our nostrils, however, leading to an altogether unpleasant dichotomy which we weren't eager to repeat.

Brussels sprouts, which are a favorite of ours anyway, tasted nothing like Brussels sprouts at all. They retained their same texture, obviously, which made for an utterly bizarre confluence of typical juicy crispness without the expected cabbagey flavor. Instead, they tasted of fresh air, green fields, springtime, almost like a crisp head of butter lettuce. We greedily gobbled as many as we could before moving on to the next items.

At the end of the table were more beverages: unsweetened cranberry juice and two dark, nutty beers. The juice tasted of Kool-Aid and cherry popsicles, but not overtly so. It was a pleasant sort of taste that reminded us of childhood and a striking reminder of the food community's original plan for Miracle fruit in this country: as an artificial sweetener for people suffering from diabetes. Unfortunately, the FDA denied approval to the powdered form of the fruit under enormous pressure from the powerful corn and sugar lobbies at the time, a sad statement on the perverse amount of power held by lobbyists and special interest groups.

Lastly came the beers. Both the Guinness and the Young's Double Chocolate Stout tasted of slightly watered-down Nestle Quik. One would expect certain chocolate undertones in the Young's, but the sheer, unadulterated chocolate taste from both was still surprising. A bit thicker, and they would have tasted exactly like chocolate milk.

While some people weren't able to experience the full effects of the Miracle fruit (the tablet form is supposed to be much more powerful, although harder to get), the evening was still a fascinating experiment to behold. Tasting the foods was interesting, but even more interesting still was to watch a mob of a hundred people slow down and experience foods in a brand-new way.

People were examining their food with new eyes, new senses, as if everything was foreign and vernal. Their faces lit up, they ate their food slowly and deliberately, lingering upon every nuance of taste, smell, texture. They licked their lips, ran their tongues across their teeth and the roofs of their mouths and smiled, laughed, like children trying a piece of mango for the first time. They studied their food, studied each other, meaningfully comparing experiences. The examinations were intense and marvelous.

It was simply intoxicating.

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Comments (3) [rss]

thanks for the awesome article katharine!

anyone interested in participating in the next flavor tripping party can subscribe to berry fairy houston for event news and details.

Again, can I just whine about how sad I am that I missed it?!

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