Urbanist: Washington Avenue

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Washington Avenue runs approximately three miles, a relatively small stretch of road in comparison to the hulking concrete freeways and endless ribbons of asphalt that flow through Houston. But those three miles, stretching parallel along I-10 and dead-ending into downtown, are potent ones. Washington Avenue is a microcosm of Houston's history and future, succinctly merging the two in ways that no other area of town does as successfully. But at its current rate of growth, with all the gentrification and redevelopment that now defines the area, it may not remain that way for much longer.

Today's Urbanist focuses on Washington Avenue from its beginning at an idiosyncratic traffic circle that joins it to Westcott and follows it until its intersection with Heights Boulevard, a journey of only a mile and a half but with dozens of stops along the way.

Old and NewWashington Avenue was originally built in 1849, on top of an existing wagon and stagecoach route that led into Houston's bustling downtown. It later had the honor of being one of the first paved streets in the city, completely filled with beautiful brick pavers at the turn of the century. At that time, Houston's busiest and grandest railway terminal was located at the end of Washington: the Houston & Texas Central (H&TC Railroard), which ran all the way to St. Louis and was considered "the finest in the South."

The surrounding areas that we still know today as Rice Military and Cottage Grove were built during World War One and the Washington corridor slowly began to change from busy thoroughfare to middle-class neighborhood. Eternally a destination for immigrants, the Washington Avenue of this era drew mostly working-class European immigrants; that would later shift as Hispanic immigrants would make up the bulk of the residents in the 1970s and 1980s. The post-war building boom in the 1950s ignored Washington, however, and it eventually began to atrophy into the slightly run-down area that developers have begun to rebuild today.

Old Street SignAs you come off the dizzying traffic circle (we Houstonians aren't quite accustomed to those, although they certainly make for better aesthetics and much better traffic flow) onto Washington Avenue, the first thing you'll notice is the abundance of new construction. Not only homes, but restaurants, banks, strip malls -- a mad jumble of conflicting styles and materials that assaults the eyes. But if you look past the ubiquitous boxes of townhomes and the spaghetti-like telephone wires that crazily line the street, you'll catch glimpses of old Houston in the tiny row houses, old brick storefronts and 1930s-era tile street signs along the curbs: Houston in a nutshell.

New Benjy'sTo the left is the nearly-completed Washington Avenue reincarnation of Benjy's, which was originally scheduled to open in June. Like its counterpart in Rice Village, this Benjy's will also prominently feature a patio on its second story. But this Benjy's will be twice as large, in keeping with the "bigger is better" theme that could be our citywide motto. Benjy's is only one of many restaurants that are turning Washington into the new dining hot spot. Restaurants ranging from relaxed to high-end have been attracting both intrepid chefs and equally excited foodies, beginning with Beaver's (the Monica Pope-run modern icehouse / BBQ joint at Sawyer and Washington) and continuing with Max's Wine Dive, Soma Sushi and Catalan.

WabashAcross the street, however, is a different story. Sitting resolutely in front of an entire block of new homes is the Wabash Antiques and Feed Store. It's a stoic reminder of more pastoral days, when people in the city still grew victory gardens and kept chickens for fresh yard eggs. Antiques are only a small part of Wabash's offerings, though. Inside, you'll find an extraordinary selection of fertilizers, bags of dirt, worm castings, gardening tools, a huge variety of plants, herbs and flowers, natural dog toys and other pet items, outdoor decorations, flower pots, and -- towards the back -- our favorite things of all: chickens, ducks, rabbits, barn cats and roosters for sale.

Our journey continues after the jump...

El Rey TaqueriaMoving further down the street, past the headquarters of Urban Living -- the company which is almost single-handedly responsible for the condo boom in the Washington corridor and nearly every other Inner Loop neighborhood -- and past the bright neon exterior of Top Dollar Pawn at the corner of Washington and Shepherd, we eventually reach El Rey Taqueria. Its shiny blue roof is recognizable from blocks away, drawing hungry patrons inside for some of the best Cuban and Mexican food in the city. El Rey was voted "Best Drive-Thru" in the city back in 2005, although Houstonist prefers to sit inside and keep the spills from our delicious Ropa Vieja confined squarely to our trays instead of our laps.

Max's Wine DiveAcross the street from El Rey in a newly-built shopping center is the much-discussed, love-it-or-hate-it Max's Wine Dive. Originally opened by the same people who run The Tasting Room, the vibe at Max's Wine Dive is intended to be laid back and jokingly boastful. Too often, however, it misses the mark with its excessively over-the-top food, caste-like reservation system and obnoxious clientèle. Since the departure of their head chef, Jonathan Jones, the restaurant has gone even further downhill. But that doesn't seem to stop the beautiful creatures from cramming into its bar every night and eating $15 bowls of macaroni and cheese. Austinist, take note: Max's is coming to a warehouse near you.

Pearl BarContinuing past the alternating rows of new townhomes, empty lots and inconsistently-occupied strip centers, we reach one of Houstonist's favorite bars. Pearl Bar has been home to many other bars throughout the years, but it's this one that we like the best. With a few comfy couches up front, a well-stocked jukebox, some rag-tag board games and an industrial, loft-like interior, this unassuming little bar is the ideal spot for a weekend drink with friends on a hot afternoon. When the weather cools off, check out their equally hip back patio. Unfortunately, the popularity of the bar has led to the recent addition of valet parking on the busy nights. Houstonist is praying that will blow over soon and give us our little bar -- sans valet, please -- back.

The Daily GrindDirectly across the street, you'll see one of Washington Avenue's first repurposings in recent years, The Daily Grind. Located inside of a charmingly refurbished old store, its lofty ceilings, exposed timbers, creaking hardwood floors and sun-filled spaces give the place an inescapably cheery feeling. If only the service left you feeling the same way... But we don't go to The Daily Grind for the service; we go for cheese grits, waffles, omelettes and delicious pecan coffee. We take a paper or our laptop (free wi-fi!) on Sunday mornings, relax in the sunshiny room with a cup of hot coffee and anticipate the inevitable wait that lies ahead for their delicious food.

Guadalajara BakeryJust down the street lies a breakfast place of an entirely different nature. Guadalajara Bakery is also located inside of an old store, but without the cheery ambiance. Instead, the paneled walls and ancient photos and newspaper clippings make it feel as if you've been transported to your tia's tiny restaurant on Navigation circa 1984. It's every bit as charming, though. Guadalajara recently made a few headlines when it was found out that they'd be permanently closing this month due to rising property tax costs. Whether a minor public outcry had anything to do with it or not, happier news prevailed and they announced that they'd been given a year-long extension on their lease.

Good thing, too, as every Houstonian should use that year to try the finest tacos (breakfast and otherwise) in town. Just remember that you order the number of tortillas you want first, so the kitchen can make them fresh; when they're ready, you choose your fillings. The slap-your-momma hot and pillowy chicharrones, the succulent barbacoa, the sweet and dusky pastor -- by rights, all of them should be treasured as the gifts from the taco gods that they are. Places like Guadalajara Bakery, Matamoros Meat Market (now closed) and Los Dos Amigos (hanging on for dear life) were once the heart and soul of Washington Avenue, catering to the heavily Hispanic, low-income community that lived in its modest houses. With that core demographic now almost entirely displaced by gentrification and the property taxes rising along with the income of its new residents, this part of Washington's history may be entirely washed away with the steady ebb tide of its former residents.

Only a few blocks further into town and we see the city's majestic skyline rising dramatically over Washington Avenue and Buffalo Bayou beyond it. We have almost reached the end of our destination. Heights Boulevard stares us down, daring us to cross its border into equally rich territory: the Sunbeam Bread Factory (and discount bread shop!), Beaver's BBQ, Rockefeller's, Star Pizza, Glenwood Cemetery... But those are destinations for another day and another Urbanist.

You can see all of the pictures from our drive down Washington Avenue below, including some that didn't make it into the article. Until next time!

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Comments (14) [rss]

Love Wabash!!! Miss Rockefeller's, The Satellite, The Bon Ton (which became Mary Jane's). Condo boom - I hope it busts. Agree on Max's, I'll get my dog at JCI and my chicken at Barbecue Inn or Spanish Village, thanks.

Great post! I really hope that Washington Ave doesn't get too fancy for its britches. And I hear that Jonathon Jones from Max's is now at Beaver's.

Me, too.

Jonathan Jones is actually up at Americas in The Woodlands now, and they're lucky to have him. :)

Actually, chef jones was asked to leave by Cordua and is now going to work at Beavers. MAX's has greatly improved since his departure and their business is better with the new staff in place - hence the announcement of the next location in Austin and Texas Monthly naming it one of the top 10 restaurants in the state to eat in for 2008.

That's the first I've heard of that news, RestaurantHound. He was still with Americas as recently as last week's Houston Restaurant Week. He's just a man on the move, ain't he?

Thanks for the heads up. :)

Great job! My favorite resturant is Laredo Taqueria across from Pearl Bar (My 2nd home). Best tacos in Houston.

fun post

whats a good starter order for an El Rey noob?

I've driven past that place probably over 400 times. It has never appealed to me at all, but there is always cars in the drive thru....

same goes for bright and early....they just have the basics, or some hidden treats?

El Rey. Mmm. The Cuban tacos and homemade lemonade are sounding mighty good right about now.

JC281, I have a friend who swears by Bright & Early's omelet in a cup. If you try one, let me know.

Will try both soon and report back!

I'll second Jim on the Cuban tacos and their awesome lemonade, but you also have to try the Cuban sandwich, the fish tacos and the tortilla soup (*drool*). I think the reason everyone swears by El Rey is because it's unusual to find such high quality food (or to find Cuban food in Houston, period) for such a reasonable price. There's a reason it's always packed... :)

As far as I can tell, the main reason that Bright & Early is so popular is because of their dual drive-thru lines; they move pretty swiftly in the mornings. Their coffee is average; same stuff you'd get at Sbux. I've not had anything else from there, though. So, someone else? Enlighten us!

What an excellent post, Mrs. KSG. You truly do know how to travel a stretch of road and convert the sights, sounds, and tastes into words. Bravo! Yet, while I know that you couldn't include quite everything in your run-down, I'm a obliged to point out a few places on Washington that you kinda missed:

1) Walter's On Washington: my favorite little dive bar/club/venue for all manner of punk, rock, and hardcore shows.
2) Mary Jane's: Sorry to all of you lovers of Pearl Bar, but this is where it was at back in the day. Maybe it's just a personal preference since one of my Top 5 Concert Memories is from this place, but I'll take a dirty bathroom over a valeted hipster joint any day.
3) Catalina Coffee: While I do appreciate the mood and food of The Daily Grind, if I want a real, classic-to-the-core doppio, I'm dropping by to visit Max over at Catalina (Sawyer & Washington).

All of that being said, I thoroughly enjoy ALL of the Urbanist articles here on Houstonist. Kudos to all of the writers for this feature.

It's tough to fit even one-tenth of all the cool stuff into one Urbanist article, that's for sure. But I agree with you -- Catalina Coffee is where it's at. I love that place. :)

wanted chime back in here, i've been to el rey a couple times now since the post. had never tried it before, but now i'm a fan! thanks houstonist!

Ooh, you know what else is good at Catalina Coffee: the Earl Grey tea cookies. Those are tasty little buggers, as the British probably never say.

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