Houstonist Bites: Fung's Kitchen

The first thing you'll notice about Fung's Kitchen is that it's always full. Arrive there at 10:00 a.m. on a Sunday morning and you won't be the early bird, simply one of hundreds of hungry brunchers. Good thing, then, that Fung's Kitchen is roughly the size of a football field inside or the wait would simply be interminable.

Dim sum is an eternally popular meal, whether eaten with loved ones on a special occasion or simply shared with a group of friends over a casual brunch. Traditionally enjoyed as a mid-morning to early-afternoon meal, dim sum has evolved over the years from a traveler's roadside snack in rural China to a festive weekend meal. The concept has even made its way into your grocery store's frozen foods section, with giant boxes of steamed pork dumplings simply called "Dim Sum" available to take home.

Dim sum at Fung's Kitchen is meant to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace, picking and choosing from the myriad trolleys and carts as they rumble quietly past your table. The carts are piled with both traditional dim sum fare -- steamed dumplings, luscious spare ribs, shao mai, bowls of thick congee -- and more exotic dishes for adventurous eaters -- delicate duck chins, braised chicken feet with black bean sauce, boiled pigs' feet in ginger, savory turnip and taro cakes.

In a way, dim sum can be seen as the Chinese version of tapas: little dishes with small portions, meant to be shared. No one dish can make an entire meal; dim sum is all about variety, and lots of it. Of course, along with your lo mai gai (steamed chicken and rice wrapped inside a lotus leaf) and char siu baau (barbequed pork inside soft, fluffy dumplings), you'll need to have the traditional hot tea that should accompany every meal of dim sum. Aside from aiding in digestion, the tea encourages companionship, tradition dictating that you must serve everyone else who needs tea first before filling your own cup.

Make sure you save room for dessert, though. You won't want to miss Fung's incredible array of egg custards, rice cakes, flans or their indulgent mango pudding. Take some friends or family and a huge appetite when you go, and you'll wonder where Fung's has been all your life.

Fung's Kitchen
7320 Southwest Freeway, #115
713-779-2288