Houstonist Eats: Little Big's

Everyone likes burgers. Even vegetarians like burgers; that's why they make round patties of veggie-whatever called Boca Burgers. And while we Texans are usually known for our predelection for great big things, we've learned from Craig Biggio and Walter's on Washington that good things can come in small packages. Which brings us to Little Big's.

Conceived by the masterminds behind the award-winning Midtown seafood fixture Reef, Little Big's is a burger shack that specializes in small. Small menu, small burgers, small prices.

Unlike the glassy modernism of Reef's interior, Little Big's harkens back to a classic diner aesthetic, and the ethos extends into the kitchen as well. You can have anything you want, so long as it's a slider. What's a slider? It's a mini-sandwich, served on a roll that looks suspiciously like one of the divine dinner rolls from Reef (because it is). You can go the traditional route and have a deliciously seasoned beef patty squeezed between your buns (along with caramelized onions and aged cheddar), or be a rebel and choose a spicy breaded chicken breast patty or deep-fried mushroom head instead.

And that's it. That's your only real choice, because the fries are a non-negotiable item. In contrast to the savory fries that are frequently lauded around town (coughNikoNikoscough), the fries at Little Bigs are a study in simplicity. Fresh cut daily from real, honest-to-gawd potatoes, fried crisp and sprinkled with nothing besides coarse sea salt. Taste the fry, not the Colonel's spice blend. You won't go back.

If you're like us, you're salivating at this point. Clean yourself up and have a drink, because Big's will oblige you there, too. Good wine, including our much-beloved fave Innocent Bystander Shiraz/Viognier, is in abundance for reasonable prices (all by-the-glass reds are the same price: $7.63). Plus, they feature a frozen White Russian appropriately named "The Dude"; as our dining companion said, "It's like candy". Except only the most awesome candy has hard liquor in it. Be safe with this one, it's sneaky-strong.

Little Big's occupies the real estate that Ming's used to call home, and the new tenants have done a lot more than just hang a new sign. A new deck houses plenty of outdoor seating, and a walk-up window allows for late-night munchers to drop in until 3am. Little Big's isn't open for lunch just yet; they open at 2pm now, but that'll change in February when they'll start at 11am. The counter service is chaotic and still undergoing some just-opened growing pains; hopefully this won't be passed off as "charm" once things get settled.

Any shortcomings that Little Big's has are erased with one bite of any of the sliders. Your mom may have made her burgers bigger, but unless she has a show on the Food Network, she sure as hell didn't make them this good.

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photo: flickr user and general hotness kshilcutt